My Passage to India

Ramtekadi Youth Center

2009-02-17T04:59:00.000-08:00

After a Cricket Match...

View of Ramtekadi Slum

Recreation Time

After spending last semester working for Deep Griha Society at their main office, I now work with kids at their youth center (Deep Griha’s Integrated Youth Activities Center) in Ramtekadi, Pune. It’s been an incredibly eye-opening and rewarding experience working at DIYA. I have learned so much about the challenges facing underprivileged youth—no parental support, discrimination from society, peer pressure, addiction, lack of motivation, lack of job skills, etc. Of course, these challenges vary from person to person.

Ramtekadi is a slum in Pune, where over 30,000 people live. Primarily, the people there are ragpickers—they go through garbage to pick out the recyclables, which are then sold. It’s an interesting and lucrative business. It’s an Indian way of recycling.

My day-to-day activities consist mainly of helping the youth center’s program coordinator. This can involve tasks as diverse as planning a field trip for the kids to creating a fundraising presentation to meeting with various NGOs. I basically help out in any way I can. DIYA is involved in a number of different programs—we run computer classes, English class, henna design class. We also have many recreational activities and workshops on topics from gender to HIV/AIDS awareness to leadership.

Our center itself faces a number of challenges. DIYA opened very recently, in July of 2008. Since then, the center has struggled to stabilize the various classes and ensure participation in our recreational activities. Now that everything seems to be stable, we lack the necessary funds to expand. The global recession seems to have badly impacted the NGO sector. Funds are not as readily available, and Deep Griha Society could certainly use donations. We find ourselves having to become more and more creative to come up with free activities that the kids would enjoy. Even taking them to go hiking or to play cricket seems to be a luxury for these youth center members. I remember in school in the US when we would often go on field trips to explore various aspects of culture, recreation and more. Here, in impoverished schools in India, the kids rarely get out and hardly get to experience much of the city they live in.

Working at DIYA is often times frustrating—having to deal with bureaucracy, lack of funds, and the many other challenges all NGOs face in India. However, every day I learn something new about development, about children, about myself and what I can do to help the underprivileged. It has made me more cynical in some ways, but more hopeful in others. It’s impossible to explain the generosity and the kindness of the people I work with. People who live in the slum, who have very little, are some of the most generous people I have ever met. I have been invited into several homes, and quickly offered a cold drink, chai, or whatever else the host may have to offer. Every day at work I am surprised by something new, and every day I am happy to be working in such an environment.

Slumdog Millionaire

2009-01-27T01:41:00.001-08:00

I recently saw an extraordinary movie, Slumdog Millionaire. To all of you who have not yet seen it, I would highly recommend a trip to the cinema. Again, I am glad to be in India at such a time. Slumdog Millionaire tells the story of a young chai wallah from an impoverished background. While on the famous game show, “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?” this boy has flashbacks to his previous life. I won’t ruin the ending for you, but I must say that this movie has everything—cinematic photography, great soundtrack, excellent acting and moral purpose. Living in India and working in a slum, I can truly say that this film shows a different, perhaps truer side of India than what is seen in Bollywood movies today. At the same time, just as all Americans do not live like Britney Spears and Bill Gates, all Indians do not come from poverty and do not all live in slums. The movie is simply an attempt to show the story of one boy who came from nothing and succeeded at something.

President Barack Obama

2009-01-27T01:40:00.000-08:00

"Your election marks a new chapter in the remarkable history of the United States. For long, the ideas of democracy, liberty and freedom espoused by the United States has been a source of inspiration...I hope that under your dynamic leadership, the United States will continue to be a source of global peace and new ideas for humanity."

- MANMOHAN SINGH, INDIAN PRIME MINISTER

The election of Barack Obama to the US Presidency will hopefully have a beneficial impact on America's image abroad. Previously, under the Bush administration, it was quite hard for an American to travel abroad and expect to be treated well. Now, when I say that I am from the US, people quickly smile and congratulate me on Obama’s victory. People in Africa are intrigued that a man who’s father came from a small Kenyan village can become president. People in the Middle East wonder at the fact that President Obama’s middle name is Hussein. And people all over the world are happy to see the success story of one man from such a humble background.

I was upset that I could not be on the National Mall for his historic inauguration, but at the same time grateful that I could witness such a moment from India. It has given me a more international perspective, and a better idea of exactly how important this victory was. It will truly change America’s image, both at home and abroad. Some may say that I am overstating the implications of his election to the presidency, and maybe I am. But it’s this kind of Obama fever that has taken over and electrified the world. I am particularly proud to be an American citizen at this time.

Karnataka Travels

2008-11-25T08:03:00.005-08:00

Discovering the "Real" India

2008-11-25T02:47:00.000-08:00

Meandering through the Devaraja Market in Mysore, I was struck by the infinite number of smells, colors and sounds. As I walked past the various stalls, I noticed coconuts, colored powders, essential oils, bananas, and every other kind of fruit and vegetable imaginable. The market is only a small section of Mysore, but once you enter through the gate it is like discovering a different, hidden India. Behind the shopping malls and the nice cars you can find the soul of this country, in its people. The market is a veritable gem, tucked away from the traffic of Mysore--and hidden here is the India I've been looking for.

Leaving the walls of the market, I am back in the noisier reality of Mysore. The city is itself rather small and old. Dominated by the Mysore Palace and other sights, the city is steeped in tradition. As I wandered the halls of a palace where royalty once lived, I felt a palpable sense of bygone days. Coming from Pune, a city where "new" India prevails, it was nice to see its polar opposite.

Going deeper into India, I traveled by bus to a town called Madikeri, in the region of Coorg in Karnataka. A two-hour journey along dusty roads led to winding forested paths where elephants are said to roam freely. Leaving Madikeri, I went trekking in the even more remote forests of Coorg. I stayed at an estate, a 20-minute jeep ride up a hill, where the water was fresh from a spring and the food was all organically grown. The scent of flowers were welcoming, and the sound of birds singing woke me in the morning. It was a rural idyll.

After spending two weeks traveling through Karnataka--seeing Bangalore, Mysore, Madikeri, Hassan and Hampi--I feel a bit closer to discovering the "real" India. Whatever that might be.

Ganesh Festival!

2008-09-22T09:14:00.000-07:00

The past few weeks have been pretty busy. I’ve been learning a lot about Hinduism, particularly the deity Ganesh (or Ganpati). This elephant-headed god is one of the most popular in India, and he is the son of Shiva and Parvati. He is the god of wisdom, and the remover of obstacles. The yearly Ganesh Festival, or Ganesh Chaturthi, is one of the biggest festivals in Maharashtra. It is celebrated especially in Mumbai and Pune, for ten days during August or September depending on the lunar calendar. It is a time when Lord Ganesh, one of the most popular gods in India, is believed to be present on earth—it is also the birthday of Ganesh. I will try to explain some of the history behind the festival, but please bear in mind that I am not a scholar of Hinduism, and I may be leaving out some important information. I apologize in advance!

The festival itself did not become prominent until the 20th century. An Indian nationalist, Lokmanya Tilak, turned the Ganesh festival into a large public event. It was meant to stimulate nationalist pride, and it was used as a way to protest British rule in India. The ten-day festival is marked by daily pujas (prayer services). On the first day, the Ganesh idol, or statue, is installed in the family’s home. During this time, long queues can be seen outside Ganesh idol shops. After it is installed, the idol is worshipped for several days. On the last day of the festival, the idols are taken to the sea in Mumbai, or the rivers in Pune, to be immersed in the water. Luckily, I had the chance to travel to Mumbai with some friends for the festival.

There is no event that is more enjoyable than Indian festivals. The Indian people are full of joy and excitement. They have no problem going out onto the streets and dancing for hours. It is quite a sight to behold. My friends and I were staying in North Mumbai, near Juhu Beach. We had the chance to see Juhu Beach during the immersion. Thousands upon thousands of people were on the beach, taking Ganesh idols into the water. We also saw the festival from the street. We stood by as hundreds of trucks passed, all carrying people and Ganesh idols to the beach. For an entire day, the city of Mumbai comes to a standstill as traffic is stopped for these parades of trucks and people on the streets. Music and dancing are everywhere, and people are singing and blowing horns on the street. Its incredibly different from the way holidays are celebrated in Western countries. Religious festivals are obviously important events in India, but they are celebrated with joy and excitement and lots of dancing. Words can only go so far, so check out my pictures below for a better idea of the Ganesh Festival.

Ganesh Chaturthi

2008-09-15T22:10:00.001-07:00

Teacher's Day with Deep Griha Society

2008-09-07T07:49:00.001-07:00

Teacher's Day with Deep Griha Society

2008-09-07T06:37:00.000-07:00

This was my first week working for an organization called Deep Griha Society. One of my goals of living in India for a year is to better understand how development works, in practice. I’ve studied plenty of development theory—that if a country wants to grow, it should increase its capital-output ratio, or liberalize trade or whatever else. While classroom education is obviously important, the truth is that theories don’t always work in practice. While the World Bank or the IMF might institute typical Washington Consensus policies in the hopes of stimulating economic growth, in reality, those very policies often do more harm than good. The reason is that not only are there a myriad of market failures in much of the developing world, but culture plays a major factor in development. Economics cannot solve the problem of poverty on its own. Knowing this before coming to India was important.

Deep Griha Society is a multi-faceted NGO that works in the Tadiwala slum of Pune. Their ultimate goal is the "empowerment of the marginalized through capacity building and sustainable rural and urban development programs". They work on a range of issues, including health, education, women’s empowerment, HIV/AIDS awareness, rural development, neo-natal care, etc. I was amazed at how much they have going on. As part of my volunteer work I will be assisting them with some administrative work, as well as helping out with “Wake Up Pune”, their HIV/AIDS awareness program. As a student of development economics, one of my primary areas of interest is rural development. I believe, like Gandhi did, that the key to development lies in the village. In order for a country to truly lift itself out of poverty, opportunity must be created at the local level, in the rural areas. If villagers had more economic and educational opportunities in the rural regions, they would not have to migrate to cities, often ending up in slums working for less than minimum wage.

On Friday, I visited two areas where Deep Griha Society is helping out with rural development. First, we went to a 16-acre plot of land that was purchased by the NGO, about 55 km outside of Pune. They have a small school for the local children, and plan to build new facilities to provide vocational and agricultural training to the local villagers. As part of a celebration for Teacher’s Day, we helped to plant trees. After visiting that land, we went to a project run by Deep Griha, called City of Child. This village is entirely self-sufficient—they grow their own food, and sell the surplus. It is home to over fifty orphaned children, who are all sponsored by various individual donors. The villagers are taught various vocational skills, and attend seminars that focus on self-empowerment. After a tour of the village and sitting in on one of the seminars, we had lunch. The food was homegrown, and cooked by some of the women in the village.

Deep Griha Society is involved in rural development in order to create opportunities in the village. By doing so, they empower people who might not have had the opportunity to experience economic well-being. They allow for the villagers to live a comfortable life, in a beautiful setting, without having to move to a slum in an urban area just to find a job. It was a privilege to see first-hand how rural development can be a success.

The University of Pune

2008-09-02T08:48:00.000-07:00

After a month of attending classes at the University of Pune, I’ve been able to pick up on some of the differences between higher education in India and the US. The first thing I noticed is that the style of teaching is entirely different. The focus here is more on lectures. In the US, we have a fair amount of lecturing, but there seems to be equal weight given to student participation. In India, students hardly participate, and the teachers hardly ask questions.

Another fascinating aspect of university life is the general lack of organization. One of the main difficulties I faced at first was the lack of signs or maps on campus. Even now I am unfamiliar with the location of most buildings. As far as I know, there is no formal way to register for classes. The fact that I am a “casual student” and not in any masters or Ph.D. program is something that is too difficult for the university to handle. Indian bureaucracy is as prevalent here as it is in any government office.

One other peculiarity that I’ve noticed is the presence of farm animals on campus. The university is located in a city of about 5 million, yet the campus itself is something like a jungle. Enclosed by walls and gates, it is literally an undeveloped forest in the middle of a modern city. Cows and goats graze on the grass, while the school’s cooks and cleaning staff reside in small dwellings in the forest. I may be exaggerating a little bit—there are paths and roads that one can walk on. However, it is not uncommon to come across a cow or snake while walking to class. The university itself is somewhat of a haven, an escape from the chaos of city life. It is quiet, cooler in temperature, and peaceful. As is true with all things in India, once I let go of frustrations, it is easier to enjoy.

Independence Day

2008-08-17T02:17:00.001-07:00

Independence Day

2008-08-17T01:28:00.000-07:00

On August 15th, India celebrates the day it gained independence from the British. They celebrate the culmination of their long struggle for freedom in a much more sombre way than we do in America. In the U.S., we observe Independence Day with fireworks, patriotic music, barbecues and lots and lots of red, white and blue. Here, Indians mark the same holiday with flag-raising ceremonies, songs and other activities planned by school for the smaller children.

This Independence Day, I had the chance to tag along as one of the Pune Rotaract clubs gave back to their community. We visited a school that had been built 15 years ago, by an earlier group of Rotaract students. This school was approximately a 10 ft. squared cement building, housing 25 or so young children. These children, aged 3 to 6, were taught by one teacher and her assistant in order to prepare them for kindergarten. The head teacher had been running the school for 15 years without any sort of compensation, and completely on her own time. The kids were given the chance to learn the alphabet, both English and Marathi, as well as other songs and vocabulary. This kind of education is incredibly important to children early on, so they don't fall behind when they reach kindergarten or first grade. This teacher was giving the gift of education to children who would not otherwise have had that opportunity--in turn, making them more independent and building the foundation for their futures.

As part of our visit, the Rotaract club gave sweets, coloring books, crayons, toys and other small items to the school and the children. They also gave a mat for the children to sit on. The children, in turn, performed some of the songs they had learned in school. They seemed incredibly happy to be there, learning, in a stable environment.

After celebrating July 4th in America, American style, it was nice to celebrate another country's independence in an entirely dissimilar fashion.

Girivan Project

2008-08-15T03:07:00.000-07:00

About a week ago, I had the opportunity to visit the Indian countryside. In order to truly understand and appreciate this country and its people, it is necessary to visit their roots--in the hills and mountains of the rural areas. Only an hour drive outside of the chaos in Pune, there exists a world of the other extreme. In contrast with the noise and commotion of Pune, the countryside is placid and serene. Farmers patiently at work replace IT employees. Rivers and hills take the place of tall buildings and shopping malls. The juxtaposition of these two worlds couldn't be more severe. All this exists only kilometers outside the city.

As we drove further into the hills, people became scarce and houses were few. We were driving to what is called the Girivan Project, a collection of small plots owned by various people and managed by one company. Farmers work the land and live in the vicinity, while the owners visit infrequently for quiet weekends away from the city. I was struck immediately by the honesty of those hills and its people. They lived simply, without the many things we in America would deem necessary. And yet, they were happier than most Americans. Happiness in India exists in abundance, whereas back home it rarely exists in its purest form. We may think that happiness comes from material possessions, but I am beginning to believe that the Buddhist philosophy that "attachment to material goods leads to suffering" is more than correct. We'll see if, in reality, I can reconcile my American consumerism with this philosophy.

Girivan Project

2008-08-10T22:10:00.001-07:00

What is a Rotary Ambassadorial Scholarship?

2008-08-10T09:21:00.000-07:00

One of the first things that struck me about Pune is that most upper and middle class families have children that are studying in the United States. So, naturally, one of the things they wanted to know was why on earth was an American coming here, to India, to study? I start with my usual speech on wanting to study development at the grassroots level, and that an organization called Rotary International had enough faith in me to fund that desire. Not only do I get to study development, but I get to be involved with a wonderfully diverse organization that is centered on values of service. One of Rotary's main tenets is "service above self". I've come across many organizations with lofty goals such as community service, the promotion of human rights, etc. Rotary is one of the first that I've seen with such a strong dedication to that goal. Their rhetoric is put into action.

The Rotary Foundation was established in 1917 by a Rotarian from my very own home district of Northeast Ohio, named Arch Klumph. It was an endowment fund that was set up in order to allow Rotarians to further the goals of world understanding, peace and goodwill. Some of their programs provides students, like me, with scholarships to study abroad and further these goals of cultural exchange and international understanding. Ambassadorial scholars serve as ambassadors of goodwill to the host country, providing presentations about their home country to various groups. This is one of the best ways to promote cross-cultural understanding, in my opinion. Many people around the world, even here in India, have preconceived notions of America that often are untrue. It will be my job here to try and dispel those notions, and in doing so, further Rotary's goal of world peace.

First Few Days

2008-08-10T09:16:00.000-07:00

It’s been about a week since I arrived in Pune. In that short period of time I’ve had only a glimpse of this vast and expanding city. Pune is a city about the size of Atlanta, with a population of around 4 million. Over the past few years, it has become an important center for the IT industry here in India. This city is an excellent example of the blend between old and new—the vegetable seller exists side by side with the business exec, the ox cart with the Mercedes. It is also the home of several colleges and universities, and has become an important academic city. A testament to its recent expansion, traffic in Pune has become a nightmare.

My first week here was spent trying to navigate through the endless maze of Indian bureaucracy. Registration at the University of Pune required numerous forms, copies of my passport, and several trips to the various departments I am taking classes in. It is true when people say that the British left behind a massively inefficient bureaucratic system. Infinite patience is often required to accomplish simple tasks.

Frustrations aside, I am beginning to learn and appreciate more of Indian culture—and of the country where my father was born.

First Impressions

2008-08-05T05:38:00.000-07:00

John Kenneth Galbraith's description of India as a "functional anarchy" is one of the most pertinent phrases that comes to mind when portraying this country. Anarchy is exactly what I saw as I stepped off the airplane in Mumbai. Driving to the hotel in a cab, I was struck by the heterogeneity of the traffic. Cars were not the only mode of transportation on Mumbai's streets--I also saw bicycles, motorcycles, street carts, cows, horses, people. All conventional ideas of traffic and safety are immediately thrown out of the window. There is no concept of one's "right of way"; people are constantly cutting in front of cars, running red lights, and committing every sort of traffic violation, at least by Western standards. Despite the vast number and variety of vehicles, there seems to be some level of divine intervention in place, directing traffic. This anarchy is, indeed, functional.

Someone once told me that foreigners will come to India not believing in God. After seeing India's traffic, they suddenly believe. Despite the chaos, there are rarely accidents or deaths on the road. India's traffic patterns and customs are an excellent illustration of Indian society as a whole. India itself is an amalgamation of thousands of cultures, languages and histories--all of which coexist in a manner that cannot be understood by limited Western concepts of "order" and "control". My first advice to newcomers would be to forget all ideas of regularity, orderliness, and uniformity.

Great Quote from Mark Twain

2008-08-03T08:21:00.000-07:00

I recently found this quote from Mark Twain, which succinctly describes India in a way that I cannot:

"This is indeed India! The land of dreams and romance, of fabulous wealth and fabulous poverty, of splendor and rags, of palaces and hovels, of famine and pestilence... the country of hundred nations and a hundred tongues, of a thousand religions and two million gods, cradle of the human race, birthplace of human speech, mother of history, grandmother of legend, great-grandmother of traditions... the one sole country under the sun that is endowed with an imperishable interest for alien prince and alien peasant, for lettered and ignorant, wise and fool, rich and poor, bond and free, the one land that all men desire to see, and having seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give that glimpse for the shows of all the rest of the world combined... Its marvels are its own; the patents cannot be infringed; imitations are not possible."

-Mark Twain, "Following the Equator"